From the
https://www.kentonline.co.uk By Secret Drinker, 10 July 2020.
Secret Drinker reviews the Smoke & Cured – The Harrow pub in Ulcombe, near Maidstone.
Before and after – Secret Drinker visited this village pub just
before lockdown and returned again this week.
If your pub is closed for 10 years, then surely waiting a few months
for a pandemic to pass should be an absolute breeze.
Just before lockdown I heard about a boozer, nestled in the sleepy
hamlet of Ulcombe, between Maidstone and Headcorn, which threw open
its doors for the first time in a decade last August.
The first thing I needed to work out was what it was called - not as
straight forward as you might think.
It’s been the "Harrow" for as long as anyone can remember and, to some
extent, still is, but since being taken over by a four-strong
village consortium they’ve made an addition.
It might have adopted a new name when it reopened in 2019, but if
you’re driving past make sure you look out for The Harrow.
So, the Smoke&Cured@The Harrow it is – glad we got that sorted.
More importantly, was it worth the wait and what’s it like after
lockdown?
There’s still parking at the front and the front door, which
confused when it wasn’t in action last time I visited, is now
clearly marked ‘way out’ - the main entrance on the right-hand side
is now the way in.
When I visited pre-Covid the first person I met was Mark. And, right
off I was reminded of the famous Carlsberg ad – as he ‘probably’ is
the best local punter you’re ever likely to meet.
I couldn’t decide what to drink but as he’d just had a fresh pint of
stout poured he insisted I try a mouthful first, what a generous
gent. Of course, I wouldn’t expect such an offer post-lockdown.
And, having sampled the 4.5% Oyster Stout from Whitstable Brewery,
my mind was made up and I instructed barman Tom, who Mrs SD thought
looked a little like Lewis Capaldi’s better looking brother, to pull
away.
Tom was our barman for our most recent visit too and made sure all
the new rules were obeyed. This time I went for a pint of 4.5% Pearl
of Kent from the Whitstable Brewery which slipped down a treat, even
though it wasn’t overly flavourful.
Inside the pub has been completely redecorated throughout and a
large area has been set aside for dining.
There are absolutely no distractions, no pool, no darts, no fruit
machines, no jukebox, not even a board game – if you’re not the sort
who wants to chat with the locals then avoid the S&C@TH as they will
definitely talk to you.
The Grade II listed building has been completely made over in line
with the most modern, trendy fashions. Stripped floorboards have
been laid over the old quarry tiles, candles are on each windowsill
and the lightbulbs have those trendy filaments that give off little
or no light.
It’s been superbly done up with great attention to detail and the
villagers are obviously delighted to have their reincarnated pub
back in action. Mind you, it has gone upmarket and is charging in
line with the changes, so will need to continue to be supported to
survive.
Stripped floorboards have been laid over the old quarry tiles and
even the back wall has been decked out.
Our waitress Lina, originally from Bulgaria, has worked here since
it opened in August last year. Informative and charming she was
happy to share her thoughts on the menu and leaves you in no doubt
about her personal favourites.
We both chose starters as our main course – I went for the slow
roast pork ribs, marinated and cooked exactly as I like them. Mrs SD
chose beef croquettes, again superbly cooked and presented, and we
shared the bread basket, though I’m sure she snaffled more of the
great freshly baked rolls. I’m convinced the main courses were great
too, but for us starters and a desert were more than enough.
I particularly rated the chocolate fondant but Mrs SD insisted I
should have been more adventurous, like her, who chose the cranberry
tart with a scoop of pistachio ice cream.
My slow roasted ribs were cooked exactly as I like them and were
rich and sticky.
Mrs SD opted for a cranberry tart for desert, served with pistachio
ice cream.
Main man Errol has got a good team in place and his efforts to
breathe new life into this great old pub deserve to be supported.
He’s concentrated on getting the important things right – the food,
the drink and the feel of the place.
One chatty local told me the pub had hosted its first music session
just prior to lockdown with a female singer and her dad playing
saxophone and, following this success, more musical Sunday evenings
were planned. Sadly they’re now obviously on hold but will hopefully
return in ‘normal’ times.
It’s still fairly early days for the S&C and to date it seems to
have remained quite a well-kept secret. They probably need to shout
about the place a little more and hopefully this re-borne boozer
will once again be the very heartbeat of the village.
Whilst the rest of the pub has been completely changed, looking at
the gents they have been restored and improved but the old-look
retained.
Decor: The place obviously needed a complete makeover and looks
good, hopefully the building’s all-important history has been
retained. ****
Drink: I wouldn’t normally choose stout but Mark persuaded me and
this one was a real beauty. The Pearl of Kent is okay and easy
drinking enough. ****
Price: Quality costs, but those prepared to pay will not be
disappointed by either the food or drink. All pre-lockdown, the ribs
were £8.50, the chocolate fondant £8, the stout was £4.50 and a
large white wine £9. ***
Atmosphere: Prior to lockdown everyone talked to everyone and
they’re still pretty friendly now - you can’t help but get drawn
into the infectious, upbeat feeling around the bar. ****
Staff: Both our barman, Tom, and waitress Lina were efficient,
helpful and cheery – they clearly enjoy working at this popular new
gastro pub. ****
The Harrow’s original bar used to be longer, but has been reduced in
length to allow for more dining tables. |