OUR VILLAGES AT THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH
CENTURY AND NOW. (1901)
STURRY THE DOVER EXPRESS AND EAST KENT MEWS—FRIDAY, 15
AUGUST, 1002.
OUR VILLAGES
LXV.—STURRY
Sturry is an ancient village on the banks of the Stour, known in the past as
the first stage on the coach road from Canterbury to Margate. Now it has a
station on the railway from Canterbury, which reaches Ramsgate and Margate
via Minster. It is still a halting place on the coach road from Canterbury
to Herne Bay.
EARLY HISTORY.
By diligent search the history of Sturry might be carried back very far. The
name | itself is suggestive. Sturry was, as late as the ‘Norman era, written
Esturia, which indicates that up to that point had flowed the sea, and that
between there and Canterbury was the navigable estuary which in its earliest
days made the City of Canterbury a sea port. This was prior to the
establishment of the adjoining town and port of Fordwich, for it was not
until Canterbury ceased to be a port that Fordwich came into existence. The
cause of the recedence of the sea from Canterbury and the estuary now called
Sturry was two-fold. For some reason, probaby the broadening of the upper
part of the English Channel by the submerging of the Goodwin sands, the
level of the sea and the height of the tide was reduced; on the other hand,
the level of the ground at Canterbury had been raised a good many feet
between the time the City was first built and the erection of the Cathedral
and its other principal structures now existent. Excavations and the digging
of wells have disclosed that there are piles and the_wooden foundations of
primitive buildings twenty feet, or more below the present ground level, so
that the gradrnd filling up of the vallev of the Stour has co-operated with
the fall of the sea level in effecting the physical change which has caused
the site of Sturry to cease to be the arm of the sea which washed the walls
of the ancient City and flowed over the land which at Sturry is now verdant
pasture.
SAXON STURRY.
Apart from facts which may be safely deducted from physical changes, records
of ¦the past in early British and Saxon times may be gleaned from the
discovery of a Saxon burial place near Sturry, md the unearthing in the
gravel bed adjoining What-mer Hall a coffin containing human remains
supposed to be Roman. The written history of the village commences with the
dawn of the seventh century, coeval with 1he revival of Christianity by St.
Augustine. King Ethelbert. on his founding the Monasterv of St. Augustine in
the year 605, gave to it this parish of Sturigao—the name of the place being
so spelled in the deed of gift; and the parish of Sturry continued as a part
of the possessions of St. Augustine’s up to the Norman period.
STURRY IN NORMAN DAYS.
The Domesday Book affords sure ground from which to survey Sturry from the
beginning of the Norman period. It is there written: “The Abbot himself
holds Esturia, which, was taxed at five sulings, but discharged. The arable
land is 12 carucates. In demesne there are two carucates and thirty-nine,
with thirty-two borderers having 12 carucates. There is a church and ten
mills of eight pounds and seven fisheries of five shillings, and 28 acres of
meadow. Of pannage sufficient for 30 hogs.” The foregoing entry reveals much
to anyone taking trouble to read between the lines—a well-developed state of
feudalism—the church at that far-off date—the ten mills, suggesting much
preparing of bread stuff both for the Manor and the Monastery—the fisheries
existing for the same purpose, and the hogs -to give the Abbot a fat larder.
This estate being near the Monastery, it does not appear that anyone lived
upon it except the working bees, the drones finding the pleasant places
within the walls of St. Augustine’s Monastery more agreeable for residence.
There being one undisturbed tenure from the Conquest to the Reformation,
there is left on record very little; Sturry history between those two
periods, except a few entries in the Courts of Record as to the Abbot
obtaining grants and renewals of Free Warren and Frank Pledge in successive
reigns.
AFTER THE ABBOTS.
The last of the Abbots was John Essex, and he appears to have been a person
who found grace in the sight of Henry VIII., for although the Monastery was
disestablished and disendowed, the lands in Stuny were re-granted to him for
the term of has life, or until he should be appointed to one or more
benefices of the value of 200 marks or upwards, besides which the Abbot had
a pension of £61 11s. 9d. These royal favours he only lived for a short time
to enjoy. Within a year, the Abbot dying, the pension and the Sturry estates
reverted to the Crown. The King leased the Sturry Manor to Sir Thomas
Cheney, and in the reign of Edward VI. it was granted in fee with the
rectory to Sir Thomas, who was then Treasurer of the King s Household; and
bir Thomas Cheney died possessed of them in the first year of the reign of
Elizabeth. Soon after that time the Cheney family sold the estate; and
shortly after, a second sale brought it into the hands of Thomas Sxmth, of
Westenhanger, commonly called the Customer. ‘ He having amassed great wealth
as a farmer of Customs in the reign ol Elizabeth, was the founder of a large
and influential family. His thrf« 6°ns were knighted, and his grandson, Sir
Thomas Smith was raised to the peerage as Vis-count Strangford, Philip, the
second Viscount resided at Sturry Court until his death in“he year 16fi3.
The Court at that time was a large brick mansion, which had been built in
the reign of James I., and in the reign of Charles II. was of sufficient
size and stateliness for the residence of a Peer of the Realm.. Since that
time it has been reduced in size and Practically re-built The arched
entrance, which still
stands adjoining the west wall of the church vard is some indication of it^anci'ent
irran-deur By the marriage of irjnry Roper, the eighth Baron Teynham, with
Catherine eldest daughter of the second Viscount Strangford, the Sturry
estate pissed to Lord Trvnham, who also resided :i short time bore After
tlmt the mansion degenerated into a farm house, the next owner Mr .John
Foote, having his residence at CTarlton
Place. Bishonshourne. There was ano ner
ATinnr in Sturrv named Mayton. or Max on the north west side of the p*msh
Thi«s also was anciently a possession of the Abbot of St. Aueustine’s. but
bemg granted hv the Abbot for knights service to tne
C ohhams. it ultimately beea-ne tbeir pn vafe nronertv. In the time of
Fdward 111. it was sold to the Cbiches. then to the Marlons from whom its
name is t«k«n. lt nevt was owned bv the Diggs, of Barham, and sifter some
intermediate owners, about the ?me of Ovie*n Anne it beWed to Mr Thomas
Dawkins. of descending
bv morriae* to Mr Chiles U.ihm«nn. MP.. and Recorder for the Citv of
Canterbury. STURRY A CENTURY AGO.
Hasted, in bis History of ^ent gives a description of Sturrv as it w*b at
the o se of the eighteenth century. He ms. me
village called Sturry Street stands on the north east side of the Stour, and
consists of about 140 houses built on each side of the high toad leading to
the Isle of Thanet. The church stands on the west side of it, and near it
the Court Lodge, now called Sturry Court, which appears to have been a
handsome brick mansion seemingly of the time of James I. It has for many
years been made use of as a farm ho.use, and has lately been much deformed
by some modern windows being put in different parts of it; also, it has been
recently much reduced in size. At a small distance is a corn mill, belonging
to the Lord of the Manor, and a little below it a lofty brick bridge, built
over the ancient ford here in the year 1776, for the greater safety ot
travellers, the river here, from the depth and continued floods, being
frequently very dangerous to be passed. But there appears to have been an
rncient bridge over the river here, belonging to the Abbot, as early as King
Edward II.'s reign. A little higher up in this parish is an ancient fulling
mill, and adjoining to it a newly-erected corn mill. . . On the opposite
side of the village, about half a mile* eastward on the Margate road, is
Whatmer Hall, in the possession of Mr. Thomas Denne, who lives in it. . . In
the year 1755. as some workmen were digging* gravel in the land at Whatmer
Hall, they discovered at the depth of five feet a large broad stone, and
under it a stone coffin with a leaden one enclosed, containing the remains
of a person seemingly of a short stature, which was decaved excepting the
teeth, which seemed perfect.” Antiouaries have pronounced this coffin to be
a Roman
STURRY OF TO-DAY.
Sturry has not so much changed in a hundred years as some places have, but
it has grown in size and population. While its near neighbour Fordwich has
dwindled from a corporate town to a small village, Sturry has increased its
houses from 140 to 268, and its population has proportionately grown, now
numbering 1184. The older and more central part of the village is in the
form of a hollow square, having the church, Court, mill ,and bridge on the
western side, the main street on its east, and newer connecting streets on
south and north. The main street extends beyond the quadrangle, on the north
leading up to the railway station, and thence over a level crossing towards
Thanet and Herne Bay, and southward over Tanquery Island to Fordwich. The
main street has a quaint old-time look, but in other parts Sturry has many
pretty modem residences. The one thing that has revolutionised Sturrv has
been tbe advent of the railway, which directlv connects it with Canterbury,
Ramsgate. Margate, Sandwich. Deal. Dover, and Folkestone; while it also
makes Sturry a station on a very pleasant circular tour round-the Stour
valley, the East coast, and the Elham valley. The village is also expecting
soon to be on the line of the Li^ht Electrical Railway from Canterbury to
Heme Bay. The streets have a Tegular anpearance, which gives it the
semblance of a small town, and it is nrohoble that in the not far distant
future it will either be merged in the City of Can-erburv or have urban
powers and an Urban Council of its own. The ancient, ehurch has been well
restored in 1«69. and elem®n-tarv schools were built and enlarged. The
village has good postal and telegraphic convenience. The. parish has places
nf wor-shin for WesWans. Bantists. and Conere-irntionolists. Tn sborf.
Sturrv offers rural attractions combined with most of the conveniences of
urban life.
8TURRY CHURCH.
The church of Sturry, now under the vicarship of the Rev. Herbert Perry
Brewer, M.A., is a centre of interest. It is a handsome large building
dedicated to St. Nicholas, but whether any portion still remains that
existed at the close of the Saxon period is not quite certain. The existing
edifice is undoubtedly very ancient ; but it is in the Early English style,
with later insertions, and consists of a chancel, nave, north and south
aisles, a large north porch, and a western embattled tower having t clock
and five bells. The nave is separated from the north and south aisles by
arcades consisting of four Early English arches, supported by square massive
piers. The windows in the south aisle are Perpendicular, and in the north
decorated. Marks of pre-Reformation times are left in various parts of the
church. There is on the south side of the chancel a piscina, and on the
north an aumbry. West of the third south pier is a nich under a trefoil
arch, indicating that there has been a shrine or an altar there. In the
gangway leading from the north entrance is a font against the second south
pier. It is evidently very ancient, and has an octagonal basin, round which
is a banding with roses at. irregular distances. At the east end of the
south aisle is a piscina under a trefoil arch, with a rude cross cut in the
back of it. At the top of the north aisle is a recess under the window like
an aumbry. The pulpit, standing on the north side of the aisle just outside
the chancel arch, consists of seven marble pillars supporting a circle of
granite, and is in memory of Thomas Rammel, who died in 1864, aged 58 years.
The chancel arch is lofty, while that at. the western end supporting the
tower is low, both pointed. The nave is divided from the chancel by an oak
screen, and over it in the span of the chancel arch is the organ. The church
was thoroughly restored and re-seated in the year 1869, but there have
evidently been very radical alterations at much earlier dates. The Decorated
windows on the north and the Perpendicular ones on the south are much more
modern than the walls in which they are inserted, while the arcades between
the nave and the aisles have been changed from Norman to their present form,
parts of the Norman arches being still distinctly visible. Many of the
windows are now stained glass memorials, the east win-1 dow being a memorial
of the Rev. Charles Wharton, vicar of this parish, 1867, presented by Mrs.
Pope in 1889. The living, which is in the gift of the Archbishop of
Canterbury, has been held by the present vicar since 1898, following the
Rev. George Billing, M.A.. who had held it from 1891. The present vicar is a
young man, energetic, and much appreciated in the parish.
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