BRABOURNE

THE DOVER EXPRESS AND EAST KENT NEWS—FRIDAY, 10 OCTOBER, 1902.

OUR VILLAGES

LXXIII.—BRABOURNE

The village of Brabourue is situate in the north-east corner of the parish ot the same name, which lies west of Monks Horton «nd_about three miles from Smeeth railway

BKABOURNE HISTORY.

The parish of Brabourue has within it four ancient Manors—Brabourne Manor (the ' history of which is recorded from two centuries before the Conquest), and the Manors ot Hermnge (at the south-east corner of the parish), Combe (in the northern part), and Hampton (to the north-west). The name of Brabourne is derived from broad bourne, alluding to the stream that rises in it. The Manor of Brabourne, soon after the dissolution of the Saxon Heptarchy, was the property of Salburga. styled the Lady of Brabourue, who, dying in the year 864, by her will provided that, for the health of her soul, forty measures of malt, fifteen rams, twenty loaves of bread, one measure of butter, one measure of cheese, four earu-cates of wood, and twenty hens, should be given out of the Manor yearly to the Mona-tery of St. Augustine. There is no record as to how long the pious wishes of the Lady of Rrabourne were carried out. Her successor tit ilie time of Edward the Confessor was GodriO Bourne, but after the Conquest the landi fcere given to Hugh d© Moutfort. on whom the Conqueror bestowed more than thirty Manor* in Kent, His Manor in Brabourne covef«*d the greater part of the parish, and the Bishort of Baieux had the remainder. Neither of the*e properties remained in the same hands lotig.

11 nd in the time of Henry I. Bernard de Ver. Constable ot England, who married Hugh de Montfort’s daughter, and who founded Horton Priory, came into possession. The changes in ownership, from that time down to the reign of Henry VII.. were so numerous and of so little general interest, that it would be tedious to enumerate them: but in the latter end of that reign Sir William Scott, hv marriage, became possessed of Brabourne Manor, the familv having from 1380 been residing at Combe Manor in Brabourne: and from the 15th to the end of the 17th century. Brabourne Court was the residence of members of the famous Scott familv: although about the year 1429 the head of the family moved from Brabourne to Scotfs Hall, in Smeeth, in connection with which place the Scotts were best known. They were of royal Scottish origin, descended from David, the King of Scotland, the family name being Baliol. William of that ilk. after settling in England. wrote his name William de Baliol le Scot. and subsequently, to gain royal favour. he dropped Baliol altogether and retained the name Scon. John Baliol. grandfather of William, founded Baliol College. Oxford. The great monumental arrav in Brabourne Church indicates that the Scotts wer® a ereat familv. in their dav. in East Kent. Seventeen generations of them lie buried in Braboume Church, and they all appear to have been very successful in securing place and power under English monarchs. One, Sir William, was Lord Chief Justice 1351). and he was the first who was interred at Brahoume. A Sir John Scott was Lieutenant of Dover Castle, and he represented Hvthe in Parliament 1384. Sir Robert Scott was Lieutenant of the lower 1424. Sir William Scott was High Sheriff of Kent 1429 and Member of Parliament for the County. Sir John Scott was Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports and Marshal of Calais about 1470. Sir William Scott, son of the former, was also Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports and Sheriff of Kent ' The greatest of all the Scotts appears to have been Sir Thomas Scott, who was Sheriff of Kent in the year of the Spanish Armada, and was appointed Chief Commander of the Kentish foot forces. He was implicitly trussed by his intimate friends, and so popular in the County that the dav after he received from the Queen s Council the letter of mobilisation, he was able to march 4IMI0 armed Kentish men to Dover. At his principal residence, Scott’s HalC in Smeeth. he liberally kept house 38 years, always having not less than UK) men at his table. It was by his wonderful ener-gv that, the Crosswall at Dover, now called Union street, creating the Wellington Dock, was formed in an incredible short space of tune, farmers having sent in their carts and men from all parts of East Kent; and Sir William kept an open table to encourage them in their work. His wife had great influence in Romney Marsh, and was called the preserver of it. Sir Thomas in his day was called the founder of Dover Harbour and the father of Romnev MarsK The succeeding Sco+ts were in their interests and lives specially connected with the adjoining parish of Smeeth. There is no historical importance associated with the subsequent owners of the Manor of Brabourne. nor v.ould it interest the reader to trace the successive owners of the three other Manors. The Scotts seem to be the only people who made a great figure at Brabourne. BRABOURNE OF TO-DAY.

Brabourne village lies at the base of the chalk hills, and there is a good vi*w of it from the road coming down from Stowting Common. South and west there is a broad open fertile valley, where lies Coombe, Brabourne Lees, and West Brabourne. The extension of the chalk hills in this parish is called Brabourne Down. Brabourne Lees
lie lower, across which is the road to Hythe. Here tnere is a raobit warren, winch in old times was celebrated, and from which the suiroundmg towns were supplied, the tla-v mi oj iirabourne Lees rabbits being deemed superior to all others. That part f, i11!!1*1" "hlch snronnds the church is well built, the principal residences being S\C!'“rt the vicarage. ThS

Post othee, kept by Mr. Hancock, overlooks the little green which forms the ap-proach to the church. West Brabourne «£s one ot the sites selected by the Kent Coal Syndicate to put down a boriutr to test if

in6 this HeaSl,,rt“S Pri°Ved a< D°Ver ex,ei,ded in this direction. It was the opinion of

Professor Bovd Dawkins that the coal would not be found on this side of the chalk i ridce. and he proved to be rijrht, for. after descending more than 1IIIKI feet the older rocks were pierced, demonstrating that I there is no coal in the Brabourne valley. I A very thick strata of millet seed ironstone was found in the boring, but in the absence of coal it is never likelv to be worked in this parish. The surface of the land is rich enough to compensate for tile absence of workable materials. Orchards and hop gardens abound, and are remarkably fruitful The population of Brabourne in the year 1801 was 42.1; in 1821 the number had increased to 590; in 1831 the population was G64; in 1841 it had reached 8811: but the increase has not continued. In 1891 the population was 765, and at the last census of 19111 the total was 622. The dweljing-hous.-s in 1821 numbered 117; in 1841 thev had increased to 179; and at the census of 1W1 there were 146 houses occupied.
BRABOURNE CHURCH.

The church at Bra.bourne, situate on the south side of the village, has an ancient appearance. In the opinion of Sir Ullbert Scott, who iu 1874 described this church to the Kent Arclneological Society, it was erected by the founders of Horton Priory, Rooert de Ver, and his wife Adeliza, nee Monttort, and presented by them in its completed state to Horton Priory about the year 1144. It was originally a pure Norman church. As it now stands it consists of a chancel, nave, south chapel, south aisle, north porch (now used as a vestry), and western tower. By additions and alterations made at various times the fabric now presents examples of Norman and Early English in the structure, and Decorated and Perpendicular in monuments and windows. The chancel is the most interesting part, both on account of its being the most perfect section of the old Norman church, and also owing to the many monuments and memorials that it contains. The chancel arch is slightly pointed, .giving the idea of its having been erected in the transition period, .but Sir Gilbert Scott thinks that it was a matter of construction rather than of style, the pointed arch for wide openings being found to be stronger than the round. The above-named eminent architect savs that every stone in this church is a picture in its skilful workmanship. On the north side of the chancel is a priests entrance, ' very simple in design, but in its finish most , picturesque and artistic. There are on the north of the chancel two amuU Norm nil I winoows, the furVhev one containing some stained glass ot the Norman period, which is now very rare. There are two round shafts, one on each side of the chancel, i starting from the string course, having riclilv carved capitals. At first glance these shafts appear to have no- special use. but Sir Gilbert Scott expressed the opinion that . thisroof was at one time groined, the intersecting diagonal stone ribs springing from 1 these shafts. The carving of the capitals of the chancel arch is beautiful. There is a piscina on the south of the altar, and on the north side an old Norman locker, in which the sacred vessels connected with the mass were kept. On the same side of the chancel i.4 the tomb of Sir John Scott, a charming example of 15th century work. On the opposite side, just outside the altar rail, is an altar-like monument, that has caused many surmises as to why it was put there; but it seems to have been accepted by the best authorities that this is a heart shrine, of which there are but few found in the churches of Kent. It is surmounted by a beautiful canopy in the Decorated style, underneath which there is part of a stone which appears to have been, when entire, heart-shaped. The shrine itself is like a scat, but too high for such a purpose, and the slab on the top, on which there is a circle enclosing a cross .marks its monumental character. There has been much discussion as to whose heart was enshrined here, but the generally-accepted opinion is that it was the heart of the the Lord of Galloway, an ancestor of the Scotts. This Lord of Galloway, whose name was John of Baliol. in conjunction with bus wife Devor-gilda, heiress of her father. John le Scott, founded Baliol College. Oxford. He died in 1269,. and his wife was so devoted to his meajorv that she had his heart embalmed and placed in a case of ivory and silver. This she carried about wherever she went, and at meal times would have it placed on her late husband’s accustomed seat. She being very rich founded the Abbey of Dul-cecor (Sweetheart), where, according to her desire, her husband’s heart was buried with her. These are undoubted facts; and now come the surmises. Shortly after the interment at Dulcecor. there were troubles in Scotland, where the Baliols became unpopular, and one of them coming to Brabourne about that time, it was the opinion of Mr. James B. Scott, F.S.A., that the heart was brought from Scotland and enshrined here. The most imposing ornament in the chancel is the remarkable tomb in the form of a stone altar, under the eastern window, commemorating the principal members of the Scott family from 1290 to 1562. It is beautiful in its ornamentation, and is constructed of Bethersden marble. The fine window over it is also a familv memorial, and contained the arms of the Scott family. The stone altar, however, is the chief monument. It consists of five panels above the altar tomb, and has the date 1290. which commemorates the marriage of William Baliol le Scott. There are seven shields on the front dated 1290, 1311, 1348. 1361, 1433. 1484. and 1562. All along the front runs the inscription: “The memorial of the

blest shal be blessed, but the name of the wicked shal rot,” quaint in spelling and lettering. Surmounting all is a pyramid in stone, under which is a coloured figure kneeling on an embattled crown. In various portions of the panelling of the tomb are other texts, taken chieflv from the B..ok of Proverbs, in the quaint language in use before the publication of the Authorised Version of the Bible. On all the shields are the three Catherine wheels, which are in the arms of the Scott family, and also those of Baliol College. It would occunv very much space to give in detail all the memorials of the Scott family which this Church contains, but we should mention that there are in their memory four very fine brasses in the floor. On the south side of the Chancel is one for Sir William Scott, obit 1429; another for his wife, and on the north side is one for another Sir William Scott, obit 1524. and another for his sister,

I wife of Sir Edward Poynings, of Wresten-' hanger. Also on the north side of the chancel there hangs over the tomb of Sir , John Scott a helmet, on which there is the | crest of the familv This is probably the trophy helmet which was used at. the funeral of Sir Thomas Scott of Armada fame. With-I ir. the memory of persons living, there was also hun? there his sword and banner, but we searched the Church-in vain for a per-
mant nt memorial of this most distinguished memoer of the Scott familv. He was buried in the Scott Chapel, south of the chancel, in Januarv. 1595. and there was a sumptuous mom.iueut erected to his honor, but it was totally destroyed by Cromwell’s soldiers, who left traces of their visit m uher narts of th, Church. There is a memorial window at the east end of the Scott Chapel, on which are conspicuous the words—

Calais A km a da

Dover

no d'jubt alluding to the achievements of fcir 1 nomas Scou, the commander oi the Aent.ish forces at the time of the threatened invasion oy tne Spanish Armada We have dwelt su lung on the Scott memorials that it would almost appear as though they we re of more importance than the Church in Which they are placed, but that is not so The Church was built before tin* rise, and y.ill l ust long alter the removal. .,f the great family which seems to monopolise it. We should be sorry to see any rude hands, after the manner ot Commonwealth soldiers, laid on these monuments, but if someone had the courage to decently and reverently remove that .iltar tomb from the place usually occupied by the holy table and place it in some more appropriate spot, nu one c uld reasonably complain. Turning to the nave (/ the Church, there is not much of its Norman character left, because the south aisle, which was erected in the Earlv English period, has the later stvle in its arcade and pillars. The three'arches of this arcade are simple, but artistic and perfect in their design and workmanship. The remarkable lightness of the columns was possibly owing to the use of the best Ken-ish ragst .ne. which is as strong as marble. Above this arcade there are three clerestory windows. The tower is of the same ace as the original Church, and although it seems abn^mally low, it does not appear to have' ever been higher. About the Fifteenth Century it seems to have been in a dangerous state, and it was then, that the immense buttresses were built on the south side of it, a remarkable exeresence which is nt w partly hidden by a thick coating of ivy. At that time the Norman work on the top < f the tower was taken down, and the present plain finish given to it. The curious open staircase in the tower leading up to the bell loft (where there are five bells) is said to be as old as the Church, and it has the appearance of being the most ancient piece of carpentery we ever saw in actual use. With respect to the Churchyard, we must only stop to make a passing reference to the yew tre.es. Mr. Evelyn, in an essay on forest trees, printed a.d. 1664. mentions a.Kw tree growing in this Churchyard which was 58 feet 11 inches in circumference That vew tree disappeared more than a century ago. but there is a fine stately successor which seems destined to last for centuries to come. On the east side of the churchyard is a spring, in connect on with which in ancient times there was a pond dedicated to St. Cvriac, and was .-aid to have special virtues. In the middle ages the Lord of the Manor maintained’ there a ducking stool for the correction of

?'lp fPr5n/ »,i*1 exists t><?tw**cm ; the- Churchvard and Wflrage garden, but

its wafers have ceased werJr miracles cr quiet scolds.

HORTON PRIORY.

Monks Horton and Brabourne have lof many *-ears been ecclesiastically one parish, ther-fore a passing reference may be agaim made to the Horton Priory, which was noticed under the head of Monks Horton. This Priory was built by the s^nie pers. ns and at the 3ame time as Brabourne Church. In .ur previous reference., owing to the' truancy of Ihe *nn at the time of our vfslt, we spoke of the front ai the present building as being south, but it is Webt, Also, adopting a statement by a Kentish historian, we stated that the existing building dales from the time of the Reformation. but we have since read Mr. Charles Bailev’s inter-estii g paper ihereon. in the X.' Volume Camiana, from which it appears that the Priory as it stands was of Norman origin with later additions. The writer, referring to the vanished Church, of which onlv a fragment of the beautiful western entrance arch remains, says that “in drv summer weather some appearances of tlie foundations of the walls of the destroyed buildings on tlie eastern side of the present remains mav be seen. It would be a work of great interest if excavations could be made, so as to a-certain what the extent of the original institution really was.”
THE DOVER EXPRESS AND EAST KENT NEWS—FRIDAY, 17 OCTOBER, 1902.