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From the
https://www.kentonline.co.uk By Claire McWethy, 22 May 2025.
Eat My Words review of The Ship Inn at Conyer near Teynham, along
Saxon Shore Way walking route.
There’s nothing like the satisfaction that comes from pushing open
the doors of a cosy pub and easing off your boots after a country
walk.
And this was no ordinary walk, or pub, for that matter.
The Ship Inn at Conyer reopened in September.
I’d spent my Saturday taking in the marshes and mudflats that make
up the Saxon Shore Way between Conyer and Faversham.
My colleague had already sung the praises of this particularly
picturesque route, and if the KentOnline seal of approval wasn’t
enough, it has also been named in the top 20 coastal walks in
Britain by The Times.
I could see why, with its epic views over the Swale Estuary on one
side and sweeping vistas of fields filled with prancing lambs and
blossom-filled orchards on the other.
But, after a tiring but rewarding stroll and treading in more than
my fair share of sheep poo, the best sight of all was when The Ship
Inn, perched beside the quaint quayside at Conyer, came into view.
“This is it,” we thought as a glass of rosé and Cruzcampo arrived at
the bar. “We’ve earned this.”
The inn is cosy and rustic inside.
The inn is cosy and rustic inside.
I had no idea what to expect from this place, having only reopened
under new management a few months ago.
This particular Ship became the scene of its own Mary Celeste-esque
mystery when, in December 2023, it shut without warning. Dismayed
locals turned up to find nothing but a note in the window.
Meanwhile, upcoming events were still being promoted on its Facebook
page.
After nine months empty, however, it was taken on by first-time
landlord Harry Roberts, who said he planned to bring in chefs with
Michelin star experience and focus on locally-sourced food.
That in mind, I felt a little twinge of sadness as I remembered
those baby sheep frolicking as my other half ordered the rump of
lamb.
I plumped for the posh fish and chips - or to give it its proper
title, halibut with seaweed potatoes, asparagus, wild garlic,
madeira and morel mushroom sauce - and we settled in at our corner
table.
Inside, The Ship Inn ticked two of my three boxes when it comes to
the perfect pub ambience - a real fire and a dog. In fact, there was
a whole link or string (whatever the collective term is) of sausage
dogs.
I’ll let them off not having the third - hops over the bar - as
there was plenty of rustic charm to be had, coming from exposed
bricks, distressed wood and period-style furniture.
It wasn’t long before our mains arrived, and at this point, the
penny dropped. This wasn’t a run-of-the-mill gastropub, overcharging
hungry ramblers as I’d feared - we’d stumbled across something
special.
The fish was firm and buttery, but it was the rich, earthy sauce
that stole the show. The potatoes were melt-in-the-mouth tender, and
the seaweed - thankfully, the variety a distant relative of those
sludgy stinkbombs that can spoil a day at the beach - added a subtle
saltiness.
It was “mop up every last drop” delicious.
The lamb was, dare I say, even better. Seared to perfection, it came
with confit belly, Jerusalem artichoke and its pairing with salty,
tangy feta and capers was a match made in heaven.
We had initially baulked when we’d seen the prices - both dishes
came in at an eye-watering £32 - but any complaints over that were
soon forgotten.
This was the stuff of special occasions, and as good as anything
I’ve eaten in Kent.
So good, we couldn’t resist the pull of the dessert menu. Everything
was £9, apart from the cheeseboard (£13). It’s fine, we decided, we
could always pawn some family silver.
Mine - a chocolate crèmeux with salted caramel, peanut praline and
honeycomb ice cream - was like the best Crunchie you’ve ever had,
while my dining partner had a pistachio sponge cake with a
refreshing strawberry sorbet, which was just as delicious.
Full and content, the after-dinner talk turned to why we’d never
heard of this place before, and how long it would be before there’d
be a waiting list to book a table here.
“Maybe we could fudge the review and say it was average?” came the
suggestion.
I suspect it wouldn’t be long before the Michelin team rumbled us,
though. The Ship Inn is just a stone’s throw down the coast from The
Sportsman in Seasalter - another pub in a prime position on this
pretty part of the Estuary - which has had a star since 2008.
Having been fortunate enough to get a table there a few years ago, I
can say that what we’d just tasted was right up there in the quality
stakes.
Even if The Ship doesn't get that particular accolade, though, it’s
safe to say this five-mile stretch of coastline is now home to not
only one of the best walks but also two of the best dining
experiences around, and we can count ourselves lucky to have it on
our doorstep.
Food: My lack of expectations meant I had the joy of having my socks
knocked off by the standard of grub here. Surely worthy of a
Michelin star *****
Drink: There was a good selection of wines, including from local
vineyards, and I’m reliably informed the lager was more than
satisfactory too *****
Decor: It was rustic and relaxed inside, and the garden looked like
it would be a lovely little sun-trap in better weather *****
Staff: Faultless. We had a warm welcome at the bar and attentive
service at our table, meaning plates were never empty or glasses
running low for very long *****
Price: Did I baulk at paying £32 for posh fish and chips? To begin
with. But it was a truly memorable meal, and I didn’t feel
short-changed on quality. The menu did have more affordable options,
with mains starting at £18 when we visited, plus gourmet sandwiches
from £9 **** |
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(Ship Endeavour) (age 39 in 1861
(Ship Endeavour) (age 48 in 1881
