THE DOVER EXPRESS AND EAST KENT NEWS—FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 1902.

XXXVIII—GOODNESTONE.

Goodnestone near Dover (so designated to distinguish it from Goodnestone near Faversham), is a pretty village on the north side of Goodnestone Park, about 2½ miles south-east from Adisham station on the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, in a parish having an area of 1793 acres.

SITUATION AND SURROUNDINGS.

The country to the west lies high and open, affording extensive views over a landscape of great diversity. Nearer the village there is more woodland, and the park is very fine and richly timbered, the undulations of the land endowing the scenery with grace and beauty.

HISTORY OF GOODNESTONE.

Goodnestone, called locally Gunston, was originally known by the name of Godwinstone, this place having been in Saxon times part of the possessions of Godwin, Earl of Kent. After the Conquest, the Manor was held by a family who took their surname from it, and Thomas de Godwynestone held it under the Archbishop, about the year 1220, and William de Goodnestone held it on the same tenure at the beginning of the reign of Henry VIII., after which the lands were divided. The Manor House and part of the lands were carried in marriage by Edith, daughter of Wiilliam de Goodnestone, to Vincent Engeham. In the year 1559, Sir Thomas Engeham, grandson of Vincent of that name, purchased the other part of the Manor from the Henecre family, to whom it had been alienated, so that in the first years of Elizabeth the whole of this Manor was in the possession of Sir Thomas Engeham, of Goodnestone. There followed him Sir Edward Engeham, whose effigy, with those of his lady and children, are to be seen in Goodnestone Church. The wife of this Sir Edward was Priscila Honywood, who narrowly escaped martyrdom in Queen Mary’s reign, but she lived to see about 400 of her descendants, and died at a good old age in the latter part of the reign of James I. Another Sir Edward Engeham, in the reign of Charles II., sold the Manor to Brook Bridges, Esq. Auditor of the Imprest, who re-built the mansion, and dying in 1717, was buried in the chancel of Goodnestone Church, which was then and is now the private property of the descendants of the Brook Bridges family. His son, Brook Bridges, Esq., who succeeded him in his office as Auditor, was created a baronet on April 19, 1718. He was twice married, first to Margaret, daughter of Lord Romney, who died childless; and his second wife was Mary, second daughter of Sir Thomas Hales of Bekeshourne. There were two children of that marriage, Brook and Margaret. Brook inherited the baronetcy and the family estate at Goodnestone, where he kept his Sheriffalty in the year 1733: and on the 23rd of May in that year, he died during his Sheriffalty in the prime of life. He had married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Palmer, of Wingham, and left one son, born a few months after his decease, who eventually succeeded to his title and estate. Margaret, before-mentioned, with her portion, bought Fredville in the year 1745 from the Duke of Newcastle, and by marriage, in the year 1750, carried it to Mr. John Plumptre, of Nottingham; and from that day the Plumptres have been at Fredville and the Bridges at Goodnestone. The Sir Brook Bridges last mentioned, who came to the title as a baby, lived to make a name in the County, which he represented in two successive Parliaments. He re-built Goodnestone House, and laid out the park in improved modern style. He died in September, 1791. He had five sons and six daughters. His eldest son Brook dying at Eton School in 1781, the second son William, by Act of Parliament, took Brook as his first name and succeeded his father as the fourth baronet. He, too, represented the County in Parliament. He married the daughter of John Foote, Esq., banker, of London, and had two sons and one daughter. The second son, Brook-George, took holy orders and the daughter Eleanor married the Rev. Henry Plumptre (son of John Plumptre, Esq., of Fredville). The eldest son, Brook William Bridges, on the death of his father in 1829, succeeded to the title and the estate as the fifth baronet. He was a Member of Parliament for East Kent from 1852 to 1857. He, in 1841, subscribed £2000 towards the restoration of the church which was carried out under his directions. He proved before the House of Lords that he was the co-heir and in all probability the sole heir of the barony of Fitzwalter, created in 1291, and which had become abeyant since 1756. In recognition of this claim he was created Baron Fitzwalter in the year 1868, and he died in the year 1875 without issue. The Barony of Fitzwalter again became abeyant, but he was succeeded in the baronetcy by his brother, the Rev. Sir Brook George Bridges; who, having held the title as sixth baronet for 15 years, died in the year 1890, and was succeeded by his cousin, the Rev. Sir Thomas Pym Bridges, as seventh baronet. He was born in 1805, the grandson of the third baronet. He died in the year 1895, and was succeeded by Sir George Talbot Bridges, also a grandson of the third baronet, a priest in the Roman Catholic Church, who died in India about a year ago; and the baronetcy has become extinct. The owner of the property now, we believe, is H. Fitzwalter Plumptre, Esq., and the mansion is now occupied by S. A. Peto. Esq. There are other seats in this parish which have been accounted Manors. Rowling, northward of the church, was held by a family named Rowling in the reign of Henry III. In the 16th century it was the residence of Sir Roger Manwood, Chief Baron of the Exchequer. After passing through various hands it became the property of Sir Narbrough D’Aeth. Bonnington, another seat in the south side of the park, is interesting as being the ancient seat of the family of Bois, of Norman origin, afterwards called Boys. R. de Bois, otherwise de Bosco, is mentioned in the Battle Abbey roll of those who accompanied the Conqueror into England. There is a gap in the history of this family from that year until the year 1357, when John Boys was established at Bonnington. His descendant, William Boys, purchased Fredville, and resided there part of his life, but returned to Bonnington, where he died in 1507. William Boys seems to have considered Fredville his chief possession, for he gave that to his eldest son John, and the ancient family seat at Bonnington he gave to his second son Thomas; and his descendant, also the owner of Bonnington, and resident there when duty permitted, was Sir John Boys, a staunch Royalist, who is known as the brave defender of Donnington Castle, Berkshire, of which he was the Governor. He died at Pennington in 1664 and was buried in Goodnestone Church. After his death, his three daughters, co-heiresses, sold the estate to Thomas Brome. who was the Mayor of Dover who received Charles II. when he landed at the Restoration. The Bromes subsequently sold the estate to the Bridges. Uffington, in the south-west part of the parish, was another seat of the family of Boys, and they held it until it was sold to the Oxendens. On the northern side of the parish is a detached part named Brook, which is supposed to be the place from which was derived the name Brook, which has always been given to the first-born son of the Bridges since they came on the page of history, in the Stuart period.

THROUGH THE VILLAGE.

The village of Goodnestone is situated on a little peninsula surrounded except on the north by Goodnestone Park. There are several roads to the village, but none very direct, yet whichever way is taken, the landscape and historic associations please and interest. From Adisham station a short distance south, lies Ratling Court, the ancient seat of the Cowpers, from which family sprang the celebrated poet of that name. Turning more to the east we pass Bonnington and Uffington, places intimately associated with the Boys family. Approaching the south-western side of Goodnestone Park we come to Pilgrim’s way, a track by which, in the ancient times, the pilgrims to Canterbury on foot or horseback found their way direct from the place of debarkation at Dover. Down the park side there is a pleasant road in the direction of Rowling Court, the ancient seat of Chief Baron Manwood; but before proceeding so far the road, turning off from the Manor Farm, goes through the park, where the magnificence of the trees and the expanse of park-land in graceful sweeps affords the eye intense delight. On the northern side the carriage way emerges into the village street, passing the mansion on the west. The first residence after passing the park gate is a pretty thatched villa of Mr. Bennett-Goldney, and where Dr. Sebastian Evans occasionally resides. Next comes the Vicarage, placed in pleasant grounds nearly opposite the church, which on the other side presents its eastern end to the road. A passing call and a short chat with the Rev. Marcus W. B. Osmaston afforded enlightenment on several points. Next beyond the church is the village inn, the forge, and the National School, intermixed with cottages which help to form the margin of the street. Nearly all the houses are of red brick, built in a pretty style, having a similarity to the vogue of the Queen Anne period. A few of the houses are probably more ancient than the days of Queen Anne. For instance, the Post Office with its black beams and white panels, is quite antique. The School is a well-constructed building, with a playground in front that has two advantages — it is spacious, and has a slope to the road, which keeps it from being sodden in bad weather. The School stands back at the top of the play-ground, but the Master’s pretty residence is on the roadside. Mr. Wyman, who has had charge of these Schools for a long period, is a most efficient Master, a man whose intelligence cannot fail to brighten village life. At the northern corner of the village street is an ancient house now called The Hospital. It has been a farm house, and has gables facing the road which are of the Stuart times. This is the house which Gabriel Richards gave by will in 1671, together with other farm buildings and 26 acres of land, for the support and maintenance of four aged, decayed gentlemen or gentlewomen, single men or single women, born in Kent; with four lodging rooms for them, with preference to such persons as might be his relations. The income from this charity did not amount to more than £20 a year, and that was but a poor pittance for four decayed gentlefolk to maintain a separate existence upon, and the money being paid once a quarter it melted away before quarter day, and the poor recipients had to eke out with what they could get from private friends or charity; or, failing either, had to take refuge in the Workhouse. Mr. James Howe, a butcher, who up to about 35 years ago had his place of business on the opposite side of the road from the Hospital, was moved with compassion for the poor inmates, and at his death in 1867 he left a sum of £2,000 to be invested to supplement the maintenance money with the stipulation that it should be paid weekly instead of quarterly. This was a welcome and a truly noble benefaction, by means of which the two old ladies and the two old gentlemen who now occupy the four separate lodging rooms are able to subsist with comfort. By the courtesy of one of the lady occupants we saw the interior of one of the lodging rooms, which was spacious and comfortable, the only drawback being that an ancient house, however interesting and picturesque, suffers from being built too soon. It would be a pity to destroy the unique frontage, but if the rooms behind it were taken in hand by another benefactor, and rebuilt, the charity left by Gabriel Richards and so liberally supplemented by James Howe, would be a still greater boon. The Post Office, which stands nearly opposite to the Hospital, has been referred to. Its black and white exterior is very picturesque, and its occupants, Mr. and Mrs. Dawson, who are the King’s deputies in the postal department here, are very pleasant people to interview. The remainder of Goodnestone beyond the Hospital takes a turn to the north-west, and there is the village shop, where Mr. Ratcliffe does the distributing business for Goodnestone. Now this ramble must terminate, but the half of that which is attractive and interesting at Goodnestone has not been told.

GOODNESTONE CHURCH.

The Church and Churchyard are embosomed in the Park on the west of the village street. The aspect is very pleasant, and the building presents a combination of substantiality and antiquity that are not usually found. The Churchyard is neat, and as a testimonial to the salubriety of the village its sods do not appear to be very frequently disturbed. This Church, which is dedicated to the Holy Cross, consist of two chancels, a nave, north aisle, and a beacon tower at the west end, in which are four bells. The church, it is stated, was erected in a great measure by the assistance of the Boys family, of Bonnington, in the time of Edward III., and in proof of this there is still to be seen cut in the stone work on the north side of the west door, under the steeple, “Orate p- T. Boys adjutor isti op.” (Pray P. T. Boys help meet these op). On each side there is a shield, the one bearing a cross and the other a saltier. In the wall there is a stone, on which is cut, “Willyam boyes,” and at each corner are sculptured the singular emblematical figures of a sow with a litter of pigs; and of a sow sitting upright, a chain about its neck, fastened to a rock behind, and an infant child in swadling clothes in its lap. We take this description from Hasted. The remains of this curious work is now embedded in the inner wall of the vestry, but Hasted speaks of it being over a stopped up window in the south wall of the nave. The Church at Goodnestone was anciently a chapel of ease to that at Wingham, but at the time of the foundation of Wingham College in 1286 it was made a separate parish and given to the College. At that time, no doubt, the Church was small, consisting probably of the north aisle only. When Thomas Boyes, of Bonnington, in the succeeding reign began to evince a pious interest in the place he probably built the nave and chancel, with the beacon tower at the end of the nave over the west door, over which is, as above stated, his name. During rather more than 200 years from the building of the present Church until the appropriation came into lay hands after the suppression of Wingham College in the reign of Edward VI., there was, no doubt, a fair fabric at Goodnestone. That may be termed the Boyes period, but from that time until the reign of Charles II there is evidence that the Church revenues both in the hands of the Crown and subsequently in the hands of lay impropriators, was regarded as a source of personal enrichment rather than for the spiritual elevation of the inhabitants. There was at the time of the Reformation, and after, a strong Protestant feeling at Goodnestone, and it is stated that the wife of Sir Thomas Engeham very narrowly escaped being burnt at the stake in Mary’s reign. In such troublous times, and in those of the Civil War that followed, it is probable that there was not much Church building. Nor is there any record that when the Bridges took the place of the Engehams as lords of the Manor, when the mansion was rebuilt, and the park beautified, there was much done to the Church. It may be inferred, therefore, that when the edifice was thoroughly restored and partially rebuilt by Sir Brook Bridges in the year 1841, the work was badly needed. So thorough was that restoration that on looking at the Church from the east end and south side it has much of the appearance of a modern building. The cost of this 1841 restoration was £3,000, of which £2,000 was given by Sir Brook Bridges, £500 raised by voluntary subscriptions, and £500 by Church rate. A peculiar feature of the exterior is the faced flints in the south wall, which give it an attractive appearance quite distinct from other country Churches in this district, and the line of sculptured heads under the embattlement of the south wall of the nave and chancel is exceedingly fine work, and must have been an expensive part of the restoration. Passing eastward to the tower, and round on the north side the older work appears to remain more intact. The tower is much admired, and it has not only been so built as to serve as a beacon and furnished with loopholes to make it a miniature fortress, but it is furnished with both ancient and modern means of giving the inhabitants the time of day. On the southern face there is a sundial, with half the face of the sun gilded on its centre, and over it the motto, "Every hour shortens life." The more modern time measurer is the clock, with its bold face and gilded numerals, which must be a very useful village institution. The interior of the Church, like the exterior, presents a dual aspect. At first view it looks entirely new under the flood of light which enters at the large plain glass eastern windows of the chancel showing all its architectural features, and the arches and shafts and mouldings look newer and cleaner, than some Churches that have not existed more than a decade. Not only does the Church look new, but it has the appearance of its furnishing not having been completed. This arises from the fact that the part of the chancel usually occupied by the choir stalls being left without seats, the large unoccupied space between the nave and the communion rail being covered with matting, under which are the large doors which lead down into the Brook-Bridges vault, this area being deemed to be the private property of that family. The other parts of the internal arrangements resulting from the state of things, are curious. The pulpit is set against the south wall of the nave, and the reading desk adjoining it both facing across the church, and the oak pews, which are handsome and massive, instead of being placed in the usual way across, run longitudinally, and face the pulpit, while the seats of the singers, and the small organ, are located on the floor at the bottom of the nave by the approach to the belfry. As it is probable that the Brook-Bridges vault will not be used for future interments, it would be a great advantage if it were covered hermetically with stone and cement. Then the seating of the Church might be re-arranged, the chancel seats with choir stalls occupying the vacant space in the chancel, and the pulpit set in the usual place outside the south pier of the chancel arch. If that re-arrangement were adopted it would greatly improve the interior of this Church, which in other respects is interesting and beautiful. Standing in the nave, the architectural features appear very effective. Looking west, the Early English arch leading to the tower is of fine proportions, disclosing an ancient west window. Eastward, there is at the entrance to the chancel a handsome gothic arch, supported by piers of clustered shafts, with ornate capitals. Further forward there is another, simpler arch over the communion rail, and in the east end is a very fine window with plain glass, in which, it is understood, memorial stained glass will be some time placed. The arcade opening to the north is very fine, consisting of three arches in the nave, and two in the chancel, the latter opening into the ancient north chancel, in the east wall of which there is retained a piscina, and over it a three-light eastern window filled with stained glass inserted in 1899, from designs drawn by Dr. Sebastian Evans. The cartoons, which are very striking, represent a scene in Rome, where Pope Gregory was struck-by the beauty of some British youths offered in the market for sale as slaves. At the foot of the window is the following inscription: “St. Gregory, who saw three boys of surpassing beauty being sold to be slaves in the Forum at Rome, asked of what country they were. When he heard that they ‘Not Angles; they be Angels, so only they were called Angles he cried out saying, be Christians.' So when the power was granted him by God, he sent Augustine to be the Apostle of Christ to the heathen English folk.” The bells in Goodnestone Church tower consist of a peal of four, of which the following are the particulars: Treble C, cast in 1821 by Mears, Whitechapel, weight 6 cwt.; second B, 7 cwt.; third A, cast in 1628, weighing 6 cwt.; and the tenor G, cast in 1708, weighing 11 cwt.

MEMORIALS AND BRASSES.

In the north aisle of the church is a mural monument to Sir Edward Engeham and his wife. Sir Edward and his lady are represented as kneeling face to face with an altar between them, and below them are represented their four sons and two daughters; and there follows this inscription: “They lived together in holy wedlock about 35 years, and had issue four sons, Thomas, Edward, John, and Isaac, with two daughters, Mary and Elizabeth. Obit ille 15 May, 1636, aged 65; illa 12 Jan., 1635, aged 52.” There is a very fine brass crest of Vincent Boys. Immediately under the piscena, on a brass in the floor, are two figures, Vincent Boys and his wife. Also, nearby, under the eastern coloured window, in the floor are a number of very interesting brasses, and some of them in tolerable preservation. Nearest the north wall is a very perfect one, its details being remarkable. It represents Christ on the Cross surrounded by friends and foes, and above Him God the Father with the halo. Some little distance below, on two brasses are two women vis a vis, each with a lettered scroll running almost to the cross above. The next set of brasses represent five women on one brass, facing three women on another, but neither date or lettering. The next brass is an escutcheon bearing the arms of the Boyes family. The next is an escutcheon bearing the arms of the Engehams. The next represents Sir Edward Engeham facing his wife. Then comes another brass with two women facing another brass with five women. Then two crests, and lastly a brass for Sir Thomas Engeham, obit 1558, and another for his wife Elizabeth. On the north wall is a tablet in Latin containing particulars of the benefaction given by Gabriel Richards, of Rowling, to the poor of Goodnestone A.D. 1672. In that year he died aged 77. Underneath this is a smaller tablet which records that James Howe, of Goodnestone, whose grave is at the right hand side of the Churchyard on entering the gates, directed his trustees in 1867 “to invest a sufficient sum of money to produce a yearly sum of £60 to be paid weekly in equal portions amongst the members for the time being of the Gabriel Richards Hospital for ever.”

THE NATIONAL SCHOOL.

We have already referred to the situation of the National school. This school is the successor of an earlier one established before the days of the Education Acts, chiefly by the liberality of the Bridges and Plumptre families. The present school is a mixed one, with an average attendance of 96. In addition to the usual Government grants it is supported by H. F. Plumptre, Esq. The present school was erected by the late Lord Fitzwalter, and it still belongs to the estate. The staff consists of Mr. John T. A. Wyman, Mrs. Wyman, and Miss Florence Wyman. Mr. Wyman has held the mastership for 39 years.

HOUSEHOLDERS AND POPULATION.

In the year 1811 there were 79 householders in Goodnestone, and there are now 75 registered householders, on the lists of electors, and after allowing for those unregistered the number is about the same as sixty years ago. The population a hundred years ago was 411, seventy years ago it was 486, sixty years ago it was 424, ten years ago 397, and last April the new census returned an aggregate of 478 inhabitants, an increase of 19 per cent, on the previous return—a rather unusual development in a rural parish.