THE DOVER EXPRESS AND EAST KENT NEWS—FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 1902.

XL.—CHILLENDEN.

Chillenden is a small village in a small parish which lies three miles east from Adisham Station. The area is but 202 acres, and the rateable value £426.

SITUATION AND SURROUNDINGS.

The situation of Chillenden is secluded, no part of it being seen from the distance except its windmill, which occupies nigh ground to the north. Hasted says it is called Chillenden owing to its cold and low situation. But as the situation is sheltered and salubrious, the name need not be accepted as having such a signification, for, compared with the bleak, open country westward, the little hollow in which Chillenden lies is snug and warm. Den, no doubt, has reference to the situation to a valley, but Chillen, formerly written Cille, most probably refers to the name of one of the five Thanes that held the property in the time of Edward the Confessor.

THE HISTORY OF CHILLENDEN.

The earliest record of Chillenden is in the Domesday Book, which mentioned that the land was taxed at one suling, which would be rather more than its present acreage, and that in the time of Edward the Confessor it was assessed at sixty shillings per annum. Before the end of the Saxon period it seems to have depreciated to thirty shillings; but coming under Norman rule, it was raised to forty. Godwin, Earl of Kent, who had the adjoining Manor of Goodnestone, held this in conjunction with five other Thanes. It may be inferred from this record that at that time there was no house of any importance at Chillenden at the time of the Conquest, although it seems that there had previously been. The Domesday Book says: “ In demesne there is nothing now, but nine villeins have there two carucates and a half.” When the Saxon lands were re-appropriated after the Conquest, Chillenden was taken as part of the possessions of the Bishop of Bayeux and it was leased from him by Thomas Osbern, who joined the lands of three of the Thanes into one Manor, which, from henceforth, formed the Manor of Chillenden. After the Bishop of Bayeux’s disgrace, the lands went to the Crown, and were held by William de Northwic, and afterwards, by a deed which is as ancient as the reign of Henry III., they were held by John de Chillenden, as well as by Edward and William de Chillenden, his successors. After the Chillendens came the Bakers, who were from the Parish of Caple, and they held the Manor till the reign of Henry IV. Then the Hunts held it for three generations, after which it was alienated to the Gasons, of Appulton, in Ickham. They were -owners of Chillenden Manor in the time of Henry ViII., and at length it was sold to the Hammonds, of St. Alban’s, in Norning-ton ; and the head of that family, W iliam Oxenden Hammond, Esq., of St. A'ban’s Court, is still the owner of the Manor , although the Manorial rights have long ago been allowed to lapse. For many generations past the Manor Farm at Chillonden has paid quit rent to the Manor of Adisham. The other two farms in the parish have for many years been a part of the Goodnestone Park estate.

THROUGH THE VILLAGE.

After passing Goodnestone Park entrance, at Bonnington, the road to Chillenden lies up the side of and then across the top of the park, and then turning eastward, about a field’s breadth, the little village of Chillenden can be seen in the valley, with the mill where Mr. William H. Bean harnesses the winds to grind the corn of the vicinity, occupying the high ground to the north. Looking further away, in the same direction, there is an extensive and pleasant view bounded in the distance by a prospect of the village of Ash, with the spire of the Church of St. Nicholas a prominent object. The first houses reached in Chillenden on descending the north-west side of the valley have the Brook Bridges hall-mark upon them. Next comes the rectory, a picturesque residence in the old black and white style finished with pretty dormer windows. This house was built, or rather re-built, by the Rev. Robert Pitman, who was inducted to the rectory in January, 1776. He built this rectory on the foundation of a much more ancient one, some portions of which still remain. The old Manor house stands back in the farm yard on the opposite side of the road from the rectory. Its glory as a residence has departed. In the days of the Chillendens, the Bakers, the Hunts, and the Gasons, a period of three centuries, it was no doubt the great house of the village, and in its present condition it bears the impress of antiquity, and is one of the most interesting bits of Old Chillenden now remaining. The farmstead attached to the Manor House adjoins the western side of the churchyard. The church is but a short distance from the road on an elevation, with a lamp to show a light on the two paths which converge at the church door. Beyond the church is another farm house, which also bears the impress of antiquity. Over the way is the carpenter’s establishment of Mr. Walter John Gibson. There is also in the village the forge of Mr. Percy Hopkins. There is here, too, the village pond—a valuable institution where, in the absence of any stream, water has to be drawn from wells; and over against this pond is a great tree with wondrous roots and the remains of a trunk that must have been a noble one in its day. Where the road rises to ascend the side of the vale towards Knowlton there is the Griffin’s Head Inn, the host of which is Mr Thomas Soames. This, too, is an ancient house, with a characteristic front, facing up the hill, and within it is roomy enough to meet all the requirements of the Village in addition to the industries of the carpenters shop, the forge, the mill, and the agricultural operations, we noticed gravel pits in operation, which afford some employment, and a commodity of commercial value. The secret of the healthiness of Chillenden is the fact that although in a trough it rests on a bed of gravel, which keeps the subsoil dry and the dwellings founded on it healthy.

CHILLENDEN CHURCH.

Chillenden Church is not mentioned in the Domesday Survey, and it is probable that it did not exist until some time after the Conquest. This church appears to have been built by William de Northwic, who was in possession of the Manor, about the year 1180, and it is recorded that about that time he presented it to the Leeds Priory . That Priory was established in the year 1119 by Robert de Creveouer, a member of a family which held many grants of lands in these parts in connection with Dover Castle and no doubt William de Northwic held under them and gave this church, as were also given revenues from the churches of Ham, Barfreston and Woodnesborough to the Leeds Abbey. But although the said William de Northwic gave this church, probably at the time it was built to that Priory, the Prior and Convent never obtained the appropriation of it, but contented themselves by drawing eight shillings a year from it, and so the church remained until the dissolution of that Priory in the 31st year of Henry VIII., when the advowson, together with that ancient pension, went to the Crown. The patronage remained with the Crown, but the pension of eight shillings a year went to the Dean and Chapter of Rochester, who were still receiving it in the nineteenth century, and probably are now. Chillenden Church is dedicated to All Saints. Hasted, writing of it about a hundred years ago, says: “It is a mean building, very small, consisting of a body and a chancel. In the windows are the remains of some very handsome painted glass. There is a handsome zigzag moulding and circular arch over the north door. There is likewise a circular arch, but plainer, over the south door.” This was written in the days of the Rev. Robert Pitman’s rectorship, and it is possible that after re-building the rectory he or his successor did something to improve the church, for although it is still small, it is not mean. It is just an ideal, simple, unpretentious village church where rich and poor may meet together and forget all social distinctions while worshipping God the Maker of them all. In noting down the special features of the fabric, the door under the north porch arrests attention. The builder, whoever he was, must have resolved that, although he was putting up a small and plain structure, it should not be wholly without ornament, therefore he instructed his masons to expend some skilful work on that portal, hence the fine zigzag and alternate billet mouldings over the carefully - sculptured Christian symbol which is placed above the lintel. But this builder, while lavishing ornamentation on the chief portal next the roadway, through which, it might be, the Bishop would enter to consecrate, and the Prior to approve of the pious work of his patron's tenant, does not seem to have risen to the level of the ancient workers who expended labour and skill unstintingly on the unseen parts. The southern doorway—out of view—was left unadorned, because Bishops and Priors, unlike the Gods, do not see everywhere. The actual existing work in this north door is probably comparatively modern, but it is doubtless a more or less faithful restoration of the original work put there by the first builder in the days when William de Northwic held the Manor under the Crevequers, and presented this church as a pious gift to the Priory at Leeds. The external appearance of the windows of the church also afford evidence of a desire for embellishment. The east and west windows are doubtless copies of the style of the originals, though more ornate, but the side ones are in the Perpendicular style, and were inserted evidently at a later date to re-place the narrow pointed lights which would be in keeping with the fashion prevailing when this church was new. Another effort of the builder to differentiate the plain body of this small church from a barn or other secular building was the picturesque octagonal west turret with its broach spire. Passing to the interior of the church its plain simplicity is its most striking feature. The seating is substantial, and so is the ancient framework of stout timber which supports the belfry and spire. The chancel screen and pulpit are innocent of the meretricious aid of varnish, but the wood, nevertheless, has been skilfully carved. The borderings of the panels of the pulpit and the backboard and canopy show good examples of the art as plied in the Jacobean period, and the screen is evidently by a different hand and of a later date. Still later probably is the decorative work in the chancel ceiling, consisting of crowns and stars, covering the space between the rafters. In the arrangement of the chancel there are evidences of two distinct periods. The aumbry on the north and the piscena in the south wall recall the time when the doctrines and practices of the Church of Rome prevailed here; and the plain communion table, far plainer than is to be found in most churches, with the words, “It is finished,” in bold letters over it, are evidences of a rigid adherence to the state of things introduced at the Reformation. The font of Caen stone, octagonal, is massive, but quite plain, has a specially large bowl, and bears the marks of antiquity. The present rector of Chillenden is the Rev. Mr. Bevan, who has recently come to the parish, as the successor of the Rev. Edward Kissack, B.A., who in 1879, succeeded the Rev. Edwd. Tritton Gurney, B.A.

MURAL & CHURCHYARD MEMORIALS.

There are but few monuments in this church, and none of them ancient. On the south wall there is a tablet to the Rev. Robert Pitman, 31 years rector of this parish, instituted 1776, and died 1807, aged 85 years: also to Penelope, his wife, who died 1801, aged 76 years, to which is appended the following inscription:

“ The toils of life and pangs of death are o're

And care, and pain, and sickness are on more."

Another tablet, having a crest over it, is to George Mutter, of Edgeware, Middlesex, died at the rectory, his son's, 1813. Also to his wife, Elizabeth, who died 1818, and both were buried in a vault in this church. There is one other tablet to the memory of the Rev. George Mutter, A.M., son of the above, who died 1843, was 36 years rector of this parish, 13 years minister of Broadway Church, Westminster, the first who put down Sunday trading in that part. He was patron and incumbent of Whitchurch, otherwise Little Stanmore, Middlesex. “His body is buried in a vault in the chancel of this church. His spirit is with God.” The more ancient of the gravestones in the churchyard have these inscriptions: “Stephen Paramor, died 1750, aged 74; also Dorothy, his wife, died 1762, aged 88,” and under their names,

“ Dear friends, lament for us no more,

We are not lost, but gone before.”

Another stone records the death of William Bullock, 1786, aged 60, and his wife, Judith, 1793, aged 70. These stones are in better preservation than some of later date. The Churchyard has several yew trees.

HOUSEHOLDERS AND POPULATION.

Chillenden never was, and probably never will be, a populous place, and there have been no great fluctuations in the number of its residents. According to the County Electoral List now in force, there are 27 registered voters, who are all occupiers of dwelling houses; and as the list is not long it may be given in extenso, with the distinctive qualification when otherwise than a dwelling house at Chillenden. It is as follows: Thomas Bartlett, William Hopper Bean (Mill), George Burchell (Jun.), George Castle, Stephen Castle, Edward Collard (Successive occupation from Staple), William Court (successive occupation from Goodnestone), William Culmer, John Dawkins (successive occupation from Goodnestone), Walter John Gibson (carpenter's shop). William Hart (successive occupation from Goodnestone), Percy Hopkins (forge), William George Joiner, William Marsh, John Charles Morris, William Pay, George Rigden (successive occupation from Knowlton), Richard Rigden, George Rye, Stephen Rye (successive occupation from Nonnington), George Sayer, William Shaxted, Thomas Soames (Griffin's Head), Charles Sutton, George Turner, John Wood, and Albert Edward Young. This list only includes those who are registered electors. There is but one person in Chillenden registered with an ownership qualification, and that is Thomas Soames, in respect of two freehold cottages. The principal landowners, H. Fitzwalter Plumptre and W. O. Hammond, Esqrs., are registered respectively under Goodnestone and Nonnington. The population of Chillenden at the 1891 census was 133. At the beginning of the century it was 122; in 1831 it was 154; and in 1841 137, so that, with the exception of the usual fluctuations, there has practically been no great change in the population of Chillenden during the last hundred years.